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Mission Furniture

HOW TO MAKE IT

PART I


POPULAR MECHANICS HANDBOOKS


CHICAGO

POPULAR MECHANICS CO.

Copyrighted, 1909, by H.H. WINDSOR


A MISSION SIDEBOARD

Oak is the most suitable material for making this sideboard and it should be first-class stock, planed and cut to the dimensions given in the following list:




Detail of the Mission Sideboard

Begin work by cutting the posts to the length indicated in the detail drawing. The top ends are tapered with a 1/2-in. slant. These posts are cut in pairs and it is best to stand them up in the same position they will be in the finished sideboard, and mark the sides to be mortised with a pencil. Also cut the grooves into which the panels are to fit. These are to be 1/4 in. wide and a little over 1/4 in. deep.




Mission Sideboard in Quarter-Sawed Oak

The rails are cut with tenon ends to match the mortises, and also have grooves to receive the panels.

The bottom part of the back is closed with a panel and two rails, one at the same height from the floor as the front bottom rail, and the top one even with the under side of the top. The large panel is for the opening thus formed.

These parts are now put together, using plenty of good hot glue, and spreading it well on the mortises and tenon ends.

When drawing the frame together with the clamps, care must be taken to get it square.

After the glue is hard enough to remove the clamps, the top and bottom are put in place. The corners of the top are notched out to fit around the posts, while the bottom is cut to fit on the inside of the rails and is held in place by putting screws in at an angle through the bottom into the rails. The top is also fastened in this way, except that the screws are run through the rails into the top.

The two vertical pieces are now put in place. Drive nails through the bottom and into these pieces. On the top end use screws driven at an angle. Glue may be used if desired.

The doors are made to match these openings. The corners are mitered and the backs rabbeted to receive the panels. These panels may be made in art glass if so desired.

The horizontal piece for the drawer to rest upon is now put in place and fastened by driving nails through the vertical pieces. The drawer is made to fit this opening, and it should be lined with velvet to keep the silverware in good condition. 

The standards and shelves are put on as shown in the drawing. The mirror is put in a frame, which is made to fit the back opening and has the corners mitered and the back rabbeted to receive the mirror.

Thoroughly scrape and sandpaper all parts that are visible. The sideboard is now ready to be finished as desired.


Mission Furniture

  1. HOME-MADE MISSION CHAIR
  2. HOW TO MAKE A LAMP STAND AND SHADE
  3. HOW TO MAKE A PORCH CHAIR
  4. HOW TO MAKE A TABOURET
  5. HOW TO MAKE A MORRIS CHAIR
  6. HOME-MADE MISSION BOOK RACK
  7. HOW TO MAKE A MISSION LIBRARY TABLE
  8. HOME-MADE MISSION CANDLESTICK
  9. ANOTHER STYLE OF MISSION CHAIR
  10. HOW TO MAKE AND FINISH A MAGAZINE STAND
  11. HOME-MADE LAWN SWING
  12. HOW TO MAKE A PORTABLE TABLE
  13. HOW TO MAKE A COMBINATION BILLIARD TABLE AND DAVENPORT
  14. EASILY MADE BOOK SHELVES
  15. A BLACKING CASE TABOURET
  16. HOW TO MAKE A ROLL TOP DESK
  17. HOW TO MAKE A ROMAN CHAIR
  18. HOW TO MAKE A SETTEE
  19. HOW TO MAKE A PYROGRAPHER'S TABLE
  20. MISSION STAINS
  21. FILLING OAK
  22. WAX FINISHING
  23. THE FUMING OF OAK
  24. HOW TO MAKE BLACK WAX
  25. THE 40 STYLES OF CHAIRS
  26. HOW TO MAKE A PIANO BENCH
  27. HOW TO MAKE A MISSION SHAVING STAND
  28. A MISSION WASTE-PAPER BASKET
  29. A CELLARETTE PEDESTAL
  30. A DRESSER
  31. A MISSION SIDEBOARD
  32. A HALL OR WINDOW SEAT
  33. A MISSION PLANT STAND
  34. A BEDSIDE MEDICINE STAND
  35. A MISSION HALL CHAIR




                                                                
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Written and maintained by
Ronald Hunter
           
  All images and text are copyright Ronald Hunter 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008 & 2009.
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