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MISSION FURNITURE

HOW TO MAKE IT

PART TWO


POPULAR MECHANICS HANDBOOKS


CHICAGO

POPULAR MECHANICS COMPANY

Copyrighted, 1910 By H. H. WINDSOR

ELECTRIC SHADE FOR THE DINING ROOM

The dining shade shown is constructed of wood and glass. There will be needed the following:

Begin work by shaping the ends of the longest pieces as shown in the drawing. All the angles are 45 deg. Next lay out the cross-lap joints at the corners so that two sets of horizontal frames shall be formed 23 by 23 in. Cut four pieces to a length of 3 in. each. Also shape up the "false" extensions of these pieces which are to be fastened below the lower frame at the corners. Since these are to be cut from the pieces just specified, the easiest way is to shape the end of each to the required angle and then crosscut. Rabbet these pieces sufficient to allow the art glass to set in on the back sides and be fastened—about 1/4 in. will do—and put them together with glue and brads.


Details of Shade

Now make the top square in a similar manner, except the rabbets. In this top square is to be fitted the 3/4-in. board which is to hold the lights and to which the chains are to be fastened.

The sloping sides are next to be made. The sides are to be built up separately, the corners being lapped and glued after rabbeting the under arrises sufficient to let the glass in. The four sides are mitered together at their edges and reinforced by covering the joint with copper. 

These sides are next mitered to the top and bottom frames and made fast on the under sides with copper strips, glue being used on the edges of the wood.

The shade shown had a mottled glass in which greens predominated. The sizes and shapes of these pieces of glass would better be determined after the woodwork is finished.



Electric Shade Complete

One manner of fastening the chains is clearly shown in the photograph. Such a combination will call for an extra piece of oak, 3/4 by 3-1/4 by 3-1/4 in. finished stock.

A good finish for this shade is obtained as follows: Put on a coat of silver gray water stain. When this has dried, sand lightly with No. 00 sandpaper and apply a coat of golden oak oil stain. Allow this to dry after wiping the surplus off with a cloth. Put on a coat of black paste filler and allow to harden over night. When dry, sand lightly and put on a coat of very thin shellac. Sand this lightly when hard and put on a coat of wax. This is a very dark finish relieved by high lights of lighter brown and is known as Antwerp oak.


Mission Furniture

  1. AN OAK BUFFET
  2. OAK STAIN
  3. A PLAIN OAK HALL CLOCK
  4. A ROCKING CHAIR
  5. A CURVED BACK ARM CHAIR
  6. A PLATE RACK
  7. TOOL FOR MARKING DOWEL HOLES
  8. A MAGAZINE TABLE
  9. A WASTE PAPER BASKET
  10. AN OAK WRITING DESK
  11. AN OAK COUCH WITH CUSHIONS
  12. ELECTRIC SHADE FOR THE DINING ROOM
  13. HOW TO BEND WOOD
  14. A SMOKING STAND
  15. A CHINA CLOSET
  16. A LEATHER-COVERED FOOTSTOOL
  17. ARTS-CRAFTS MANTEL CLOCK
  18. A MUSIC STAND
  19. MAKING SCREWS HOLD IN THE END GRAIN OF WOOD
  20. A WALL CASE WITH A MIRROR DOOR
  21. A SIDE CHAIR
  22. AN ARM CHAIR
  23. A BOOKCASE
  24. A LAMP STAND
  25. AN EXTENSION DINING TABLE
  26. AN OAK-BOUND CEDAR CHEST
  27. A TOOL FOR MAKING MORTISES
  28. A DRESSER FOR CHILD'S PLAYROOM
  29. CUTTING TENONS WITH A HAND-SAW
  30. ARTS AND CRAFTS OIL LAMP
  31. ANOTHER CHINA CLOSET
  32. AN OAK BEDSTEAD
  33. AN OAK FOOTSTOOL
  34. A LIBRARY SET IN PYRO-CARVING
  35. A GRILLE WITH PEDESTALS TO MATCH
  36. A LADY'S WRITING DESK
  37. A TELEPHONE STAND AND STOOL
  38. HOW TO MAKE A DOWEL-CUTTING TOOL
  39. A MEDICINE CABINET




                                                                
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Written and maintained by
Ronald Hunter
           
  All images and text are copyright Ronald Hunter 2005, 2006, 2007 & 2008.
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